How to Sew the Ezi-sew Nursing Bra
To add to our posts on nursing bras, here’s a tutorial on how to sew the Ezi-Sew Nursing bra. We actually wanted to see how easily it sewed together, and also how it fit after finishing it. Then we can compare how to sew the Ezi-sew Nursing bra to the self-drafted nursing bra I made in this post. Ready to begin? The Ezi-Sew nursing bra is available in three size ranges, the PZ-109 fits bra sizes 32B – E through to 40B-E. The PZ-110 fits bra sizes 32F-I through to 40F-I. Finally the PZ-108 fits bra sizes 42C-F through 48C-F. That’s a great range of sizes – 36 unique sizes in all! They are sized for the Australian market, however they also have a conversion chart for us over here! (To calculate your US size add 22 to the Australian size, so size 14 = 36 in this pattern)
When I opened up the packages, I noticed the Ezi-sew Nursing Bra pattern instructions are printed right on the pattern pages. As well, the page is printed on both sides, so you need to trace the pattern, rather than cut it out.
Alterations to the pattern
We traced out Ashley’s size which is 36D and I did notice a couple of changes I wanted to make. One is the hook and eye area at the back. I think the spacing on their hook and eye is different from ours. It was a simple thing to change the height of the hook and eye area. Allow for the elastic on the bottom edge, then measure up for the hook and eye. We needed to raise this by 3/8″ (9 mm)
Then we walked the pattern around to make sure it fit. The only bug I saw was at the underbust area. The seam length was a wee bit short. Not the end of the world, and easy to fix.
We decided on a royal blue poppy lace for the main fabric, spray basted to ivory duoplex for support. The findings are ivory coloured
The back band is the royal blue power net. It doesn’t use much fabric!
Now for the Sewing!
The first sewing that we did on the Ezi-sew Nursing Bra is to attach the upper cup to the lower cup. We also sewed the front frame to the back band. We may as well get that straight stitch sewing done at once!
The we added fold over binding to the outer top edge – the edge that sits under the arm. We have it pinned so you can see where it sews. This first edge to cover is the underarm edge of the outer cup.
Next, we prepared the sling. The Ezi-sew Nursing Bra pattern calls for two layers of fabric serged together for the inside sling. That seemed very reasonable to us! Here it is serged along the curvy edge and sewn inside the cup.
Sew the bottom band elastic to the whole length of the bottom band. The instruction on how to sew the Ezi-sew Nursing Bra actually ask you to cut the elastic 1 1/2″ shorter than the band, so we did that before sewing the elastic on. In the photo, the elastic hasn’t been sewn on yet. it is just laying there, patiently waiting for us to sew it!
Once the bottom band elastic is sewn on, we will pin the cup into the prepared frame
Sewing is easy once it is pinned! The we sew the channeling to the seam allowance around the cup.
We sew on the fold over binding to the neckline edge as well as on the sling and top edge of the bra. You an top stitch the channeling now too. Our bra is almost finished!
Add the Clips
Now that our cups are in, we have two parts to the cup itself – the outer cover which can be lowered when feeding and the inner sling that keeps the breast and the strap attached when the outer cup is lowered. We need to sew the clips to the tops of the sling and the outer cover. First you want to make sure the strap tab of both the outer cover and the sling are the right width to fit into the one-handed nursing clip. Don’t sew it yet, though. You’ll want to test the exact position on the body before you sew.
Here’s the outer cover which needs the “front” piece of the clip. I noticed the strap tab was a little too wide for the One-handed Nursing Clip. We trimmed the tab on the left to fit into the clip. The outer cover
Then, according to the instructions on how to sew the Ezi-sew Nursing Bra, we need the other part of the clip on the sling. It also attaches to the strap. Here we used strap tape, but you could use a tube of fabric, or even strap elastics if you want (not too stretchy!) You’ll notice we also added the fold-over binding to the neckline edge.
Just to clarify, this is how the one handed nursing clips go on. The back piece holds the straps in the top rung and the sling on the bottom rung. The front piece of the clip holds the outer cup.
The back straps and the hook and eye are last to go on
Finally, we try on the bra and make sure both clips are at the right height. That’s easy to do it you pinned the clips first.
Are you ready to see the final Ezi-sew Nursing bra? Here it is in the open position.
And here is the finished Ezi-sew Nursing bra!