Alpha to Omega
You may have found that you buy a bra only to find that the wire is way out toward your underarm and pokes you? Or after a few hours (or minutes) the wire slides down your rib cage. Often, there is a flat area of fabric next to the wire where the breast does not fill the cup. Yet the rest of the cup away from the wire line seems to be filled up.You can see that in this photo where the wrinkles indicate there is no breast in that area. You are an Omega and this post should give you lots of information you need…from Alpha to Omega, in fact!
WHAT’S AN OMEGA?
The Omega shape is smaller at the base (or root) than than the breast it supports. The normal thoracic shaping is the dotted line and the omega shape is the solid line.
CAN OMEGAS BUY RTW BRAS?
I measured this bra to be between a 40G and a 40H in our sizing (100HH in their sizing) with a Bottom Cup Depth of 6.25″. In my Pin-up Girls patterns, the wire for that size is a #52 shown with the black tip below. But the wire from that bra (the yellow tip) is much, much smaller and a lot taller on the side! On an Omega, that wire would fit and so would the bra cup! However, on someone who is not an Omega, they would find that wire painful to say the least.
PATTERN ALTERATION FOR OMEGA SHAPE
Once you find out how much extra you have on the front and the side, remove the basting. Now you need to shrink the length of the cup’s wire line only. In other words, we need to keep the overall volume of the cup the same but shrink its perimeter to fit the frame. However, the shrinkage needs to occur below the apex. More specifically, If we imagine the breast is like a clock, the “shrinkage zone” will be from about 3:00 to 9:00
SHORT CURVED DARTS