Cloning a Seamless Cup
That means your cup has been molded into that shape at the factory and since you likely don’t have a molding machine in your garage, you won’t be able to duplicate this cup. Or can you? Actually, you can, as long as you are willing to have a seam (or seams) in the cup to provide the shaping that the molding gives. Let’s see how to do it. First as I mentioned you have to remove the wire. I measured it against my set of wires and found it to be a 42 regular wire.
Notice the seam that is at the middle of the bottom of the cup. That’s where the seam ends between the back band and the front frame. Usually the seam is more toward the back but in the bra, it is directly under the cup as you might be able to see here. You can feel it as a raised bump along the bottom of the wire line.
Once the piece is pinned, I go around the edge with a larger pin (a hat pin or a floral pin is really ideal) to punch the pin marks and leave a nice hole in the paper that you will be able to see once the pins are removed. Then I “sketch” the shape from pinhole to pinhole. Don’t try to be perfect at this stage – you just want to create a pencil outline you can see. I also marked the DoGS.
Next, turn the cup a quarter turn and repeat the process. You should have two pins that intersect at the apex.
- you may not have found the apex. The cup should lie flat if the pins are right at the apex.
- you may have to divide your cup into more than two parts. The more seams you have, the more shaping you can have in your cup. This happens more often on the larger cups or the Omega shaped cups. Seams are your friend!
First I tried a diagonal seam. A diagonal seam starts in the underarm seam, runs through the apex and ends in the wire line seam. Here’s what the lower cup would look like in a diagonal cup.
And the upper cup. It’s ok, but not really the look I was going for.
The horizontal is not going to work at all. This cup is fairly low in the front and the horizontal seam would end up cutting across the neckline edge. Not a good look as you can see here. Forget that one.
And here’s the inner cup…looks good
Now you can pin along the fold to keep the two parts from shifting around. Then pin in the well of the seam to get the shape of the outer cup. You can see where we tried out different style lines on this cup. We used a wash-out marker so we could see the difference between them.
And flip the cup to pin around the inner cup. it’s actually quite easy!
Time to True the Seams!