A Ruby for your Treasured Chest

Our newest pattern, called the Ruby, is a foam-lined bra with offset vertical seams. Because it is foam-lined, you may not be familiar with the construction techniques peculiar to foam. Denise recently made her version and she happily shares the secrets with you. Here then, is how to make a Ruby for your Treasured Chest!

She chose to use stretch lace edging over cut and sew foam. This particular lace was so pretty, though, that she  decided to let the lace edging be a feature part of the construction. For more info on how to make that lace edging and the Gothic Arch for the bottom band, see this post. Then we turned down the top centre front of the bridge, too and stitched it.

There are two different cup patterns – one for the foam and one for the fabric (or lace) cover. Once you cut out the cut & sew foam for the cups, you can sew them together easy-peasey. Simply butt two edges together and zig-zag over them using a 4 width and a 1.5 length. The notches are so well marked on the pattern pieces, that you won’t get these mixed up or upside down. Sew the 3 lower cup pieces together, then sew the upper cup to the lower cup unit. What did I tell you? It’s sew easy!

Stabilize the neckline edge and the underarm edge on the inside of the foam. This keeps those areas from stretching out.

Now sew the lace or the fabric pieces together following the same construction sequence, but this time, you use 1/4″ (6 mm) seam allowances. Here I show some white paper under the lower cup seam for clarity. Open and topstitch the seams.

Smooth the lace cover over the cut and sew foam cup. being sure to match the seamlines as close as possible. There may be a bit of the lace cover fabric extending beyond the foam. Don’t worry about it – it is normal! Baste the cover to the foam around the perimeter and cut off the excess lace. Then apply fold-over binding to the neckline edge of the cup. It is easy to sew on, particularly if you use a glue stick to hold it in place. Makes sewing a snap!


Then sew the cup into the frame, pinning the elastic from the Gothic Arch out of the way as you see here.

Now it’s time to sew the channeling to the cup ‘s wire line. When you do sew the channeling, be sure to trim off the elastic away from the seamline so the channel can turn over it smoothly.

Here Denise is stitching the channeling on its outer edge. Nothing new here, but I love how the lace edge extends over the elastic.

Here’s the channeling all stitched down.

Denise changed the strap a little too. Instead of using plain elastic for the strap as directed in the pattern, she added some lace edging left over from the cup covers. She sewed the lace to the back of the strap using a small zig-zag stitch.

Then trimmed the excess.

The elastic strap now has a bit of lace edging to tie in with the rest of the bra.

The finished bra. I certainly hope you add a Ruby to your treasured Chest. We’d love to see what you create, so we invite share your finished Rubies on our Facebook page!

9 replies
  1. Louise
    Louise says:


    This looks absolutely beautiful and the style is just what I’ve been looking for, for ages. Could the pattern be adapted to sew without foam and use a lining instead?


  2. Michelle
    Michelle says:

    Thank you for this wonderful post! I love the lace edge, and adding it to the strap makes the strap SO pretty!

    • Beverly Johnson
      Beverly Johnson says:

      I know, right? This is a “Denise” touch and very pretty. I am very happy with the Ruby and with two seams on the lower cup instead of one, it makes it easy to adjut for the Omega breast. Although we are finding women are adjusting this pattern less than the Classic for example. I took years of teaching the Classic and incorporated those changes into the Ruby. Now I am going back to re-do a “New” classic, Shelley, Linda and Sharon, all based on my BCD sizing.

  3. JenL
    JenL says:

    Looks beautiful, and I am really interested in the pattern. The vertical seaming looks like it would offer nice shaping.

    (BTW, there seems to be a display problem with the posting on Bloglovin).

  4. lulix1955
    lulix1955 says:

    My wire are 38 short with B cup.
    Is the Ruby pattern compatible with short wires?
    It is a beautiful pattern.
    I would like to make it.

    • Beverly Johnson
      Beverly Johnson says:

      You certainly could shorten the upper cup to accept a short wire. It uses regular wires as the “standard” but there is no reason why you couldn’t lower the front of the cup and the bridge

      • lulix1955
        lulix1955 says:

        thank you Beverly
        I had a fitting with you when I was in boob camp last march.
        If I make a foam cup with my basic pattern and then the foam cup from the ruby pattern, I guess I can get the right fit for the depth, side and underam by overlaying the two with wirelines matching. I would then retrace the top of the front cup and the bridge of the ruby for my short wires.
        Are all sizes included in the same pattern for the Ruby bra? If not since my basic pattern is PINK, B cup 38 short wires, what size should I choose?


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