Our newest pattern, called the Ruby, is a foam-lined bra with offset vertical seams. Because it is foam-lined, you may not be familiar with the construction techniques peculiar to foam. Denise recently made her version and she happily shares the secrets with you. Here then, is how to make a Ruby for your Treasured Chest!
She chose to use stretch lace edging over cut and sew foam. This particular lace was so pretty, though, that she decided to let the lace edging be a feature part of the construction. For more info on how to make that lace edging and the Gothic Arch for the bottom band, see this post. Then we turned down the top centre front of the bridge, too and stitched it.
There are two different cup patterns – one for the foam and one for the fabric (or lace) cover. Once you cut out the cut & sew foam for the cups, you can sew them together easy-peasey. Simply butt two edges together and zig-zag over them using a 4 width and a 1.5 length. The notches are so well marked on the pattern pieces, that you won’t get these mixed up or upside down. Sew the 3 lower cup pieces together, then sew the upper cup to the lower cup unit. What did I tell you? It’s sew easy!
Stabilize the neckline edge and the underarm edge on the inside of the foam. This keeps those areas from stretching out.
Now sew the lace or the fabric pieces together following the same construction sequence, but this time, you use 1/4″ (6 mm) seam allowances. There is white paper under the lower cup seam for clarity. Open and topstitch the seams.
Smooth the lace cover over the cut and sew foam cup. being sure to match the seamlines as close as possible. There may be a bit of the lace cover fabric extending beyond the foam. Don’t worry about it – it is normal! Baste the cover to the foam around the perimeter and cut off the excess lace. Then apply fold-over binding to the neckline edge of the cup. It is easy to sew on, particularly if you use a glue stick to hold it in place. Makes sewing a snap!
Then sew the cup into the frame, pinning the elastic from the Gothic Arch out of the way as you see here.
Now it’s time to sew the channeling to the cup ‘s wire line. When you do sew the channeling, be sure to trim off the elastic away from the seamline so the channel can turn over it smoothly.
Here Denise is stitching the channeling on its outer edge. Nothing new here, but I love how the lace edge extends over the elastic.
Here’s the channeling all stitched down.
Denise changed the strap a little too. Instead of using plain elastic for the strap as directed in the pattern, she added some lace edging left over from the cup covers. She sewed the lace to the back of the strap using a small zig-zag stitch.
Then trimmed the excess.
The elastic strap now has a bit of lace edging to tie in with the rest of the bra.
The finished bra. I certainly hope you add a Ruby to your treasured Chest. We’d love to see what you create, so we invite share your finished Rubies on our Facebook page!