How to Sew Ingrid

Ingrid is a non-wired support bra from the design team at Pin-up Girls. Together we’ve created a bra pattern with the largest size range on the planet. Ingrid has a lot of pieces, and they all contribute to the engineering of this remarkable bra. Here, then is how to sew Ingrid, so that your sewing will be smooth and trouble-free.

After cutting out the pieces according to the cutting diagram in the instructions, we pin the lower cups together. The lower cup is in two parts (except for the smallest sizes). The top and bottom of the seams are not perfectly square, which can present a problem if you are not familiar with sewing angled edges. You can see clearly here how the piece underneath forms a “dog-ear”. The tip of the “ear” needs to be exactly 1/4″

You can see how the edge lines up correctly when you do this. Press the seam open and topstitch

Sewing the upper cup to the lower cup can be a bit tricky. But match the 1/4″ seamline to the small square section of the inner lower cup. It will look like this.

Here’s what the piece looks like after topstitching. You can see the small squared off section of the front below the cross cup seam (this is the right hand cup shown).

The underbust piece is the piece with a sharp up-turn. This is the centre front.

With ride sides together, sew the underbust to the bottom of the lower cup.

Here is the seam pressed to the underbust side and topstitched. You can see there is still a very short section of the inner lower cup still showing. If yours looks like this, you are on the right track!

Now you can sew the front panel to the cup. the front panel was designed using a double layer of power net, so that the area between the breasts can breathe. We’ve stabilized the top (neckline) edge of the piece on the wrong side according the pattern instructions. You can use a piece of tricot tape, a strip of sheer cup lining or even a strip of selvedge cut from a woven fabric.

Press this seam toward the cup and topstitch.

Now for the side panel. With right sides together, sew the side panel to the cup. press the seam toward the side panel and topstitch. You can see how neatly the strap connection meets the upper cup and the front panel.

Add the strap to the strap attachment point (we give you instructions for padding the straps in the pattern). Then press the fold-over elastic binding in half along the crease to prepare it to be sewn along the neckline edge.

We use a glue stick to hold the fold-over elastic binding along the neckline edge and up the strap until we sew it (or…you could use pins)

The back band is the final piece of the Ingrid puzzle. Sew the back band on, press the seam to the side panel side, and topstitch.

Your Ingrid bra is together. You should take a deep breath at his point – the hard part is over. All that is left to do is to apply the elastic to the upper edge of the bra. This is no different than sewing any other bra elastic.

Sew the bottom band elastic on in the same way. Yes, the Ingrid is still in two pieces. We don’t sew the Ingrid into one piece until after the bottom band is sewn on. You might notice we changed thread colours at the seams. I don’t like it when the fabric changes colour, but the thread does not. It’s another step to do, but produces a much better result, in my opinion.

We cut two 10″ pieces of strap elastic and add sliders and rings to them as in any other bra. Sew the strap on the back, and add the hook and eyes. Then, finally…we can sew the centre front seam together, which will form a nice little Gothic Arch.

Here is Ingrid all finished. Now that you know how to sew Ingrid, I do hope you will share photos of your Ingrid makes on our social media. Use the hashtag #bramakerssupply when you do so we will be notified.

 

10 replies
  1. Hilde
    Hilde says:

    This seems like a great pattern for a sports bra.
    Do you have a picture of the inside of the centre front? If you sew it last, does that mean the seam is exposed?
    And will you offer this (or any of your patterns) as pdf?

    Reply
    • Beverly Johnson
      Beverly Johnson says:

      Yes, the seam along the CF is sewn last so the seams are exposed. However a strip of seam tape of even duoplex would fix that…or you could put in a zipper. My plan is to get all my patterns over to their new format using the BCD method before I change them to a .pdf format. I’ve thought about that for years but the patterns are too big and unwieldy at the moment. I need to pare them down.

      Reply
  2. Ingrid
    Ingrid says:

    Love it. (Band 85 cm. Cup, 19.5 cm.
    The straps are dropping from my shoulders, will be no problem on the second one.
    Even I will make the brigde higher. For me the straps are far too long, need just 4 cm straps.
    But I will the sew this bra many times, many colors.

    Reply
  3. Anne
    Anne says:

    thank you so much for the pattern. I have been looking for ages for a sports bra pattern that was not based on compression. Finally!!!!!!! Thank you so much

    Reply
    • Beverly Johnson
      Beverly Johnson says:

      We’ve wanted a non-wired bra for those larger sizes for several years now! I hope you enjoy Ingrid!

      Reply
  4. Kate Hannon
    Kate Hannon says:

    How crucial is it to use powernet for the front panels? Does there need to be stretch there, or could I use woven fabric? Trying to avoid/enclose synthetics, for allergy reasons, so I would make this out of patchworking cotton and line the powernet in the back band with stretch bamboo. If the stretch in the front is essential then I would also line that with the bamboo, if you think that would work…

    Reply
    • Beverly Johnson
      Beverly Johnson says:

      The power net on the front panels allows the upper cup to stretch a bit along the neckline edge, making it more suitable for those with a fuller upper cup. However some of our testers made it with all woven fabrics (cotton) and they loved it. A non-stretch upper cup will actually function better as a sports bra. Having a rigid upper cup will hold the upper breast from bouncing.

      Reply
      • LinB
        LinB says:

        So, it is breathability and flexibility of the front panels that is the object and aim of using powernet? Yay! Am making my second Ingrid using all lightweight cotton broadcloth, except for the back band. Cutting the front panels on the bias should do the trick.

        Am also lining the whole shebang in another light smooth cotton fabric. The order of construction will be a bit different, to enclose all the seams. Interesting puzzle.

        Thank you so much for this pattern. First attempt was nearly perfect except I got the cups a wee bit too big. Second attempt looks to be a perfect fit, so far. Still love the Shelly for an underwire bra, but it will be nice to have underwear that won’t get me pulled out of a TSA line because I set off the metal detector.

        Reply

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  1. […] has two great posts on Ingrid. Introducing Ingrid, and How to Sew Ingrid. Both are great posts, but that second one, How to Sew Ingrid would have helped me the first sew […]

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