Classic Full Band Bra Pattern
The Classic Full Band Bra Pattern is a beautifully fitting bra from the Pin-up Girls, now updated for a fresh new look! This classic full band bra can be made with or without underwires and has great lift and support. It has been specially designed to use with Duoplex, and other low-stretch fabrics; which give the best support and a flattering profile. This is the pattern featured in The Bra-makers Manual and on the Craftsy/Bluprint Classes. Please note that this is version 2 of the pattern and you can read about the changes here.
The Classic Full Band Bra Pattern has three views – one made entirely of fabric, one with lace trim on the upper cup and one made with lace trim on the entire cup. Both views use fabric for extra comfortable straps. This pattern is available in over 90 sizes. All patterns have both French and English instructions and material lists!
If you are not quite confident enough about your ability to make a bra and fit it from the pattern, why not consider taking a class in Beginner Bra-Making? We use the Pin-up Girls patterns for all classes. You learn the professional methods of construction, then get it professionally fitted to YOUR unique body.
If you will be using underwires in your bra, please see our Underwire size chart to determine your correct underwire size and type. You will notice 3 different underwire styles listed on the chart – WR, WL, and WX. Click on the underwire type listed for your size.
This pattern uses a unique sizing system, called the Bottom Cup Depth Sizing Method (BCD). All BCD sizes from 2.25 through 7.5 are included in this one pattern which offers the equivalent of over 100 ready-to-wear sizes. This includes the “in-between” sizes that ready-to-wear does not carry!
While wearing your best-fitting non-padded bra, be sure to hold the tape flat against your body and do not twist. Measure your BOTTOM CUP DEPTH, which is the measurement from the apex seam following the curve of the breast down to the seam at the wireline on the lower cup pattern piece – that is the Bottom Cup Depth. This number (in inches) is the pattern size you will use. For example, if you measure 5.25” BCD, you will trace the 5.25 size for all pieces.
Next, measure your RIB CAGE, pulling the tape snug against the skin but not tight. If you measure 34” on the rib cage, you will trace to the line marked 34 on the 5.25 band pattern piece.
The unique feature of the BCD system of sizing is that is the cup you’ve chosen is too small or too large, you simply make the next BCD size up or down.
0.5 metres of low-stretch knit such as Duoplex for the cups and frame
0.5 metres of Scalloped Edge Lace, 6″ wide or less(for view 2 only)
0.5 metres of Scalloped Edge Lace, 9″ wide or less (for view 3 only)
0.4 metres or less of sheer cup lining to use behind the lace (sheer view 2 or 3)
0.3 metres of Power Net for the back band
0.1 metres of cut & sew foam padding if you want padded straps
1.2 metres of 1/2″ Plush Back/Band Elastic for the bottom band BCD sizes 2.25 to 4.5
1.2 metres of 3/4″ Plush Back/Band Elastic for the bottom band BCD sizes 4.75 to 7.5
1.2 metres of ⅜” Plush Back/Band Elastic for top band
1.2 metres of ¼”-⅜” Fancy Edge Elastic for the neckline
0.6 metres of 3/8″ wide strip of stabiliser for the neckline
0.6 metres of ½” or ⅝” Strap Elastic for BCD sizes 2.25 to 4.5
0.6 metres of 3/4″ Strap Elastic for BCD sizes 4.75 to 7.5
1 set of Rings & Sliders in a size to match the strap elastic
1 metre of Underwire Casing
1 Hook & Eye Set for the back (2 x 3 for sizes 2.25 – 4.5) or (3 x 3 for sizes 4.75 – 7.5)
1 Bow Embellishment for the front (optional)
1 set of Underwires in your size (optional) – view Underwire size chart