Ruby Full Band Bra Pattern
The fashionable Ruby full band bra pattern can be made with or without underwires. This pattern features an off-set vertical seamed cup for the roundest styling, and a shortened upper cup for maximum lift. Our testers were amazed at the push-up look this pattern gives. The Ruby Full Band Bra Pattern has been specially designed to use with foam lining, therefore enabling you to use virtually any stretch fabric over it as a cup cover. It can even be made without foam, using low-stretch fabrics or fabrics lined with Sheer Cup Lining.
The sizing for the Ruby is a bit different from other bra patterns, in that we use the Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) to determine the size of the cup. This is the measurement from the wire line at the base of the cup up to the location of the apex. It is much more accurate than relying on Ready-to-wear bra sizing, which can differ from company to company. Determine your BCD by measuring your best fitting bra between these two points. All cup sizes from 3.0 to 6.0 are included in the pattern. Combine these 13 cup depths with 1 of 8 band sizes from 26″ (65 cm) through 40″ (100 cm) to make the Ruby Full Band Bra Pattern size range equivalent to over 100 unique bra sizes.
For your convenience we’ve created the Ruby Bra Findings Kit. In it we include all the finishing materials listed here except the fabric, foam, underwires and the pattern.
Required Materials for Ruby:
0.3 m of Cut & Sew Foam Lining (only if using foam lining)
0.5 m of stretchy fabric to cover the cups (if using foam lining)
0.5 m of stable fabric such as Duoplex or Sheer Cup Lining for the cups (if not using foam lining) and for the frame
0.3 metres of Power Net for the back band
0.7 m or less of 3/8″ finished width Fold-over Binding
1.1 m or less of ½” Plush-Back/Band Elastic for bottom band
1.2 metres of ⅜” Plush Back/Band Elastic for top band
0.5 metres of 3/8″ wide strip of stabilizer for the neckline
1.0 – 1.2 m of of Strap Elastic 5/8″ wide for BCD sizes 3.0-4.5 and 3/4″ wide for sizes 4.75 to 6.0
1.0-1.2 m of double face satin ribbon, 5/8″ or 3/4″ to use as a stabilizer under the front part of the strap elastic
2 sliders and 4 rings width to match the strap elastic, either 5/8″ or 3/4″ wide
1 metre of Underwire Casing
1 Hook & Eye Set for the back (2 hooks high for sizes 3.0-4.5 and 3 hooks high for sizes 4.5-6.0)
1 Bow Embellishment for the front (optional)
1 set of Underwires according to the chart below
|Bottom Cup Depth||Usually Fits North American Bra Sizes||Accepts Wire Sizes|
|3.0″ (7.5 cm)||36A, 34B, 32 C||WR-34, WL-32|
|3.25″ (8.1 cm)||38A, 36B, 34C||WR-36, WL-34|
|3.5″ (8.8 cm)||40A, 38B, 36C, 32D||WR-38, WL-36|
|3.75″ (9.4 cm)||40B, 38C, 34D, 30E||WR-40, WL-38, WX-36|
|4.0″ (10 cm)||42B, 40C, 36D, 32E||WR-42, WL-40, WX-38|
|4.25″ (10.6 cm)||44B, 42C, 38D, 34E, 30F||WR-44, WL-42, WX-40|
|4.5″ (11.2 cm)||44C, 40D, 36E, 32F||WR-44, WL-42, WX-40|
|4.75″ (11.9 cm)||42D, 38E, 34F, 30G||WR-46, WL-44, WX-42|
|5.0″ (12.5 cm)||44D, 40E, 36F, 32G||WR-46, WL-44, WX-42|
|5.25″ (13.3 cm)||42E, 38F, 34G, 30H||WR-48, WL-46, WX-44|
|5.5″ (13.8 cm)||44E, 40F, 36G, 32H||WR-48, WL-46, WX-44|
|5.75″ (14.4 cm)||42F, 38G, 34H||WR-50, WL-48, WX-46|
|6.0″ (15 cm)||44F, 40G, 36H||WR-50, WL-48, WX-46|
WR – Regular Underwires
WL – Long Underwires
WX – Extra Long Underwires
For information on how to measure and what fabric to use for the Ruby Bra, see the following videos created by Mandy Bengeyfield of Fit2Sew, our UK distributor. Mandy is also hosting a Ruby Bra sew-along on her blog.
Serena (verified owner) –
I consider myself an advanced beginner, so I approached this pattern with some trepidation about sewing the foam and the underwire channeling. The foam turned out to be incredibly easy, but I did have to do some unpicking on the channeling. However, I am happy to report that my first attempt (32 BCD 5.0) is a winner! I might move the shoulder straps in towards my neck by 1/2″ for my next attempt, but on my very first try this pattern created a bra that is beautiful, comfortable, supportive and FLATTERING! This is the Holy Grail for someone like me who has large, aging breasts on a small frame. Most bras push my breasts out to the sides so I look really wide — the Ruby pushes my breasts forward so I actually look like I have a waist. And the bra itself is so beautiful that I am considering making it up in swimwear fabric to use as a bikini top.
Thank-you, Fairy Bra-Mother 😉
M. Helton –
Wow. On the third muslin, I have a near perfect fit. On the first try (bride of frankenbra, using what i grabbed first. Red thread on beige foam cups is not a pretty look.) the cup size was perfect (BCD 4.0). The band was too big (I measured a 34). The wire had no “wiggle room.” I tried muslin #2 with a stable fabric for the band. Same issues. On the third try, I cut the 32 band and used fold-over elastic to finish the underarm seam instead of the 3/8″ picot elastic. Perfect. I still have much practice, but this is one of the best fitting bras I have ever had.
Beverly Johnson –
I am SEW HAPPY to hear this! Congratulations to you!
nette86 (verified owner) –
This bra was a tiny bit too small. BUT… it looks fabulous. It will enhance your cleavage. So when you measure… use a bra like suggested. I made this as a sports bra … so to be more conservative…. go up one size. I covered it with spandex fabric… so perfect as a bikini top or sports bra, or wear alone. It dips low, like a demi cup/push up style…. so sports bra with no top, might be to provocative for some folks to handle……. go for the Alison if you need more modesty.
danamermaid7 (verified owner) –
Just finished my Ruby bra tonight. It fits like a dream. I used the Y-back with the keyhole and hook and eye.
Beverly Johnson –
Good for you to try a different back and make exactly what you wanted!
Ruby Full Band Bra Pattern – a foam lined bra pattern from Bra Makers Supply
Steph (verified owner) –
I am seriously blown away by this bra. It was my first pin up girl pattern and I have made three really ill fitting bras before this one. BUT! This one nailed it! The fit is amazing. I did a foam cup so that I could judge the fit and have a little room to fudge sizing and it was spot on. It gives a nice rounded shape- after breastfeeding my breast tissue is all on the bottom and not so much in the top so a lot of cup styles fit me strangely but this one fit perfect! So wonderful! Thank you for a wonderful pattern!