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You are here: Home1 / The Bra Makers Manual By Beverly Johnson

The Bra-makers Manual

The Bra Makers Manuals By Beverly Johnson were written as textbooks for the home sewist as well as those involved in custom bra-making.

Even if you have never sewn a bra for anyone else, you will thoroughly enjoy making your own well-fitting and supportive bras. Now you can have bras in all of the fashionable fabrics and colours, in styles that rival ready-to-wear – at a fraction of the cost.

It doesn’t matter what size you are, you will be able to make your own custom fitting bra.

The Manuals are conveniently coil bound, making it easy to open on your sewing table.

There are two volumes of the manual – The Bra Makers Manual Volume 1 and The Bra Makers Manual Volume 2. Each of the manuals cover differing depths of information and areas, for the sewist to become familiar with.

All technical drawings created by Beverly Johnson, The Fairy Bra Mother.

Happy sewing!

Volume 1 - Table of Contents

VOLUME 1

  1. History of the Bra…………………..1-12
    The Bra Family Tree
    So Who Invented the First Bra?
    The Twenties and Thirties
    The Rise of Elastic
    Wartime and the Boomer Years
    Burn That Bra!
    That 70’s Look
    The Feminine Mystique of the 1980s
    The Return to Cleavage – 1990s
  2. Terms and Definitions……………..13-23
    Parts of a Bra
    Types of Bras
    Cups
    Frames
    Bridges
    Straps
    Bra Findings
  3. What is Good Fit?…………………..24-33
    What “is” Good Fit?
    Characteristics of a Well-fitting Bra
    Measuring for Ready-to-wear (N. American)
    Measuring for Ready-to-wear (International)
    Calculating Bra Sizes by Measurement
    The BCD Method of Bra Sizing (Second Edition Only)
    The Underwire System (First Edition Only)
    International Bra Sizing Conversion Chart (First Edition Only)
  4. Making Fabric Choices……………34-50
    Knits or Wovens
    Knit terms
    Percentage and Direction of Pull
    Beefing up the Fabric
    Fibre Content
    Fabric Pull and How it Affects Design
    Fabric Quantities
    Elastic Terms
  5. Obtaining the Pattern……………….51-73
    Home Sewing Patterns
    Cloning a Ready-to-wear Bra
    Breast Moulds
    Bra Drafting Software
    Drafting a Bra Pattern from a Sloper
    Professional Bra Blocks
    Terms used in Bra Design
    Relating the Bra to the Pattern Pieces
    Evaluating a Bra Pattern
    Observations about Bra Grading
    An Easy Way to Grade a Bra Pattern
    Grading One Size Larger
  6. Birth of a Bra………………………………74-88
    Tester Cups
    Designing a Bra One Piece at a Time
    Fabric Selection
    Framework
    Closure
    Seamline Variations
    Bridge and Band Detail
    Straps
    Bra Design Sheet
  7. The Construction Process………….89-122
    Setting Up to Sew
    The Equipment
    The Tools
    Preparing the Fabric Before Cutting
    Construction Sequence of a Full Band Bra
    Construction Sequence of a Partial Band Bra
    Alternate Methods of Construction
    Alternate Methods of a Front Strap Attachment
    Alternate Methods of a Back Strap Attachment
    Choices for Wire Line Treatments
    Alternate Band Construction
    Common Mistakes Everyone Makes
  8. Fitting to a Live Model……………123-145
    Fittings Prior to Sewing
    Assessing the First Fitting
    Alterations to the Straps
    Alterations to the Band
    Alterations to the Bridge
    Alterations to the Cups
  9. Style Changes for Fashion………..146-182
    Minor Style Changes
    Major Style Changes
    The Strapless Bra
  10. Style Changes for Special Needs…183-222
    Support Challenges
    Support Bras
    Nursing Bras
    Mastectomy Bras
  11. Appendix…………………………223-230
    Suggested Futher Reading
    Wire Chart
    Client Information and Design Sheet
    Fitting and Style Change Drawings
    List of Sample Providers
  12. Index……………………231-235
Volume 2 - Table of Contents

VOLUME 2

    1. Style, Size & Shape Revisited……..……………….……….1-21
      Classifying Bra Styles
      Ready-to-wear Sizing Primer
      How does RTW measure its bras?
      Breast Contour
      Minimizers
      Petites
      Looking at Breasts
    2. Drafting a Bra Pattern………………………………….…22-49
      Drafting a Bra Block
      Drafting the Frame
      Drafting the Lower Cup
      Drafting the Upper Cup
      Modifying Cup Style Lines
    3. Grading Bra Patterns………………………….…………50-61
      How the Body Grows
      Two Sets of Grade Rules?
      Cross Grading
      Frameless Bra Band Grade
      Frameless Bra Cup Grade
      Cup Grade in the Larger Cup Sizes
      Frame Bra Band Grade
      Sports Bra Grade
    4. Complex Fitting Techniques…………………….….….…62-75
      Thoracic Shaping
      The Flat Spot
      The 5 Body Types
      Fitting Petites
      Fitting the Low Contour Breast
      Back To The Wall
      Fitting The Omega Shape
      Increasing lift
    5. Loving Lace……………………………………………76-94
      Working with lace Edging
      Ideas for Lace application
    6. Photo Gallery
    7. Advanced construction …………………..…….….…….95-112
      Alternative Channeling Applications
      Using Sliders instead of Rings
      Front Strap Connectors
      Changing the Construction Order
      Nursing Bra Clips
      Slide Lock Adjusters
      Separators
      Using Continuous Wires
      Using Adhesives
    8. Cut-and-sew Foam Cups…………………..……………113-120
      Cut-and-sew?
      Contour Foam Cups
      Cut-and-sew Foam
      Seam and Topstitch
      Butt and zig-zag
      Mold Your Own Foam?
    9. Molded Foam Cups………….…………………………121-162
      Birth of a Foam Cup
      Foam Footprints
      Foam Cup Sizing
      Bullet Molding
      Drafting a Frame for Foam Cups
      Covering Molded Foam Cups
      Finishing the Cup Edges
      Making Foam Cup Bras
    10. Tools of the Trade………………..……………………163-177
      Machines for Bra-making
      Feeders, Folders, Binders and Hemmers
      Other Useful Accessories
    11. Chapter of Charts……………….………………..……178-184
      Suggested Further Reading
      Ready-to-wear Bra Sizing Chart
      Ready-to-wear Standards (inches)
      Ready-to-wear Standards (metric)
      Wire Schematic
      Using the Underwire Schematic
      Arc Length Chart
      Strap Patterns
    12. Index……………………………………………..…185-188

Beverly Johnson started teaching bra-making in 1995, after many years of making her own dance costumes and figure skating costumes. But she was a teacher long before that. Beverly taught high school Home Economics in the early 70s, then taught adult sewing, quilting and interior design for the next 25 years! She travelled all over the world to teach sewing techniques.

When she started teaching, the lack of well-fitting commercial bra patterns and good quality supplies became glaringly apparent; and so, she made a double-sided decision. One – she determined to engineer a bra pattern for her students, one that would encompass all the unique sizes of the women she met. Two – she was adamant about only selling top quality supplies; supplies that were readily available to the bra-making industry, but not to the fabric stores or the home sewist.

Bra-makers Supply put out its first one-page catalogue in 1997. Like many other woman-owned and operated businesses begin, Bra-makers Supply started in the basement of Beverly’s home. Then, Threads magazine mentioned Bra-Makers Supply in one issue, also mentioning that Bra-Makers Supply was located in Canada! This caused business to explode! Soon stores were calling wanting bra-making classes. This began Beverly’s love-affair with her HUGE suitcase, as she travelled all over the world teaching women to sew bras. The suitcase was big enough that Beverly could have travelled in it herself!

At the same time, the stores were asking where they could buy the supplies they wanted for their customers. Bra-makers Wholesale was born and now services over 200 retail locations, keeping them supplied with the same top-quality goods that Beverly’s students had come to enjoy.

The 70-pound suitcase, however, was not built to last.  Just try lifting a suitcase full of underwires, class notes and fabrics! With ever increasing demand for teaching, what was Beverly to do? In a stroke of pure genius that only sleep deprivation can induce, Beverly decided to train women to become Instructors using her Universal Fit Method and patterns. Now her methods and patterns are all over the world!

Bra-makers Supply moved from Beverly’s basement to a small Markham warehouse in January 1999. The order desk was manned (or should we say “wo-manned”) for over 6 years by the crew there. The stock kept growing and growing until they were out of space …again!

Beverly had the idea that women who enjoyed sewing their own well-fitting and supportive bras might want to make a career out of sewing bras for other women. The Professional made-to-Measure Bra-making Program was first taught under the umbrella of Mohawk College (Hamilton, Ontario, Canada), and has proven to be very popular. It made sense in 2003, that Beverly move yet again, to Hamilton. She decided that this was the place to have a store and internet order centre,  as well as a classroom where she could teach courses for all levels of bra-making, swimwear and corsetry.

The final piece of the puzzle was the completion and publication of Beverly’s book The Bra-makers Manual,  in December 2005. We know you are going to ask when she had time to write such a book, and the answer should be obvious – a lot of Beverly’s time travelling was spent on airplanes. Most of the book was written inside airports across Canada and on flights overseas. The drawings were done by hand until she discovered how well computers could handle all 760 technical drawings in the book – that certainly made life easier. Start to finish, the book took over 6 years to produce!

In 2010, they moved to their own space in the heart of the fabric district on Ottawa Street. It has both a beautiful well-lit and spacious classroom; and  a large stockroom area. This is now where Bra-makers calls home – 308 Ottawa Street.  To complete the whole picture is a team of highly qualified ladies, mentored by Beverly, bringing the friendly “voice”of Bra-makers.  They all process orders and answer any questions you may have.

Beverly’s little company has grown over the past 20 years from a one-page list of supplies to a 4000 square foot store filled with remarkable goodies.  Large enough to handle all your bra-making needs, but never so large that we forget where we came from and the women who helped us get there.

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