Make your Bra a Longline Bra

I get asked all the time about when a longline pattern is going to come out in the Pin-up Girls line. It isn’t likely to be anytime soon as I have lots of “other” bra patterns in my brain struggling to spring forth! But the truth is, you already have the skills to make your bra a longline bra, as long as you have a bra pattern that fits you can make your own longline very easily!
I did a newsletter tutorial about this at the beginning of February, but here is a little more detail about the process! If you have made a bra before, you can do this!


Lets’ start with what pattern to use as a base. The best pattern to make your bra a longline bra is a full band bra such as the Classic Bra
or the Shelley Bra if you have that one…
Or if you prefer pre-formed cups, you could use the Amanda/Alyssa pattern

As long as there is a band that runs under the cups here, you have what you need. Let’s get started!

You’ll need the front frame and the back band pieces

Decide how far under the bottom of the wire bowl you want the edge of the longline to finish.
Even a couple of inches lower than it currently sits makes a good longline, but it could go to the waist if you want.

Tape the band and frame pieces together at the side seam as if they were sewn. That means you overlap the edges twice the seam allowance width. That would be 1/2″ overlap for patterns using 1/4″ seams (mine are 1/4″) You will be treating this as one unit from here on.

Trace around the pattern on a piece of paper. Then, slide the pattern down to the desired amount, keeping the centre front line straight.

Straighten out the bottom edge, or keep a gentle curve

Separate the band from the frame again, adding the seam allowances along the added side seams.

Since you are only altering the frame and the back band, you can use any style of cups  in the longline. Remember, though that this method isn’t for a partial band bra like Linda or Sharon. Only a full band bra can use this method.

Construction of a longline is no different than sewing a regular bra, although you may want to increase the width of the bottom band elastic, which helps to hold the bottom edge in place. Some will use boning inside a casing along the side seams, but that is a matter of personal preference.

Now, that wasn’t so hard to make your bra a longline bra, was it? Have you made a longline bra yet? I’d love to hear about it, and I would certainly love to see it posted to our Facebook page!

16 replies
  1. Patricia
    Patricia says:

    I bought 2 longline bras and do not wish to send back they are about 1 inch to small what do I buy to make bigger?

  2. Yvonne
    Yvonne says:

    I used to have a longline bra (back in the dark ages when I was a preteen and developed suddenly and a lot) that had hooks and eyes all the way down the front of the bra. I loved that bra. It was cotton and it was easy to put on. It looked so old fashioned, but it was wonderful to wear. I outgrew it far too quickly. It seems to me that a front closure is a natural choice for a longline bra.

  3. Sarita
    Sarita says:


    Thank you so much for this tip. I’ve been looking for something to accommodate my back since losing some weight. I know I won’t always need a long line (to conceal back bulge) but this will certainly do for now. Looking forward to trying this in about a week.

  4. Dari Akin
    Dari Akin says:

    I have tried to follow your instructions but I am not understanding how it should work. In reality the angle of the back wing of the Shelly pattern is pointing down more than this illustration.

  5. Elizabeth
    Elizabeth says:

    If you want to out boning in it, what kind of boning do you use? and how do you launder it with boning?

    • Beverly V. Johnson
      Beverly V. Johnson says:

      You can use plastic boning, but my preference is for zinc coated pre-cut spiral boning. As for the washing, anything with boning in it, you should gently hand wash and lay flat to dry. It can’t handle going in the machine.

  6. Beverly Johnson
    Beverly Johnson says:

    You really need to have the hooks and eyes support the whole back of the bra, not just the bottom area. If you use 3 x 3 hooks and eyes and put them more toward the waist, the entire cup is left unsupported. Better to use more hooks and eyes and keep everything together! Of course it depends on size too, and the level of support you have but generally, more hooks are better!

    • Lori Strout
      Lori Strout says:

      Hi Beverly, Most novice bra sewers are thinking does that mean I have to put multiple sets of hook and eyes on a longline bra? They may not realize that you can buy hook and eye tape by the yard or meter. Just to help out the new sewers. If you buy a fabric kit to make a bra there may be enough fabric for a longline but the notions that come with the kit ( the elastic and pre-cut hook and eyes) and maybe even the thread will not be sufficient. Thank you Beverly for having such a great impact on all of us in the Bra Sewing Universe.

      • Beverly Johnson
        Beverly Johnson says:

        You are absolutely right! In most kits, there is NOT enough hook and eye (or even other supplies) to make a longline bra, unless the kit was specifically designed to use for a longline pattern.

  7. Brenda
    Brenda says:

    Hi Beverly, Would it work to cut the back down enough to accept the three hook closure? Or do you need to leave it wider for support?

  8. Beverly Johnson
    Beverly Johnson says:

    We closed the back with hook and eye tape, which is a long strip of hooks and eyes. Think of it as hook and eye by the metre! Some try to put the hooks and eyes in the front, but unless there is space between the breasts (and there often is not) a back closing is better.


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