7 Essential Tips for Sewing Stretch Fabrics Like a Pro

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If you’ve ever tried to sew stretch fabrics.. like powernet, spandex, or stretch lace then you already know they can be a little sassy. They slip, stretch, and sometimes make your machine sound like it’s protesting! But once you learn a few tricks, stretch fabrics become your best friends, especially for sewing lingerie, activewear, and bralettes that fit beautifully. At Bra-Makers Supply, we’ve helped thousands of makers learn how to handle stretch fabrics confidently. Whether you’re brand new to sewing lingerie or just want smoother seams, these practical tips will have you stitching like a pro in no time.

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1. Choose the Right Needle

The right needle makes all the difference! Always use a stretch or ballpoint needle (size 75/11 or 80/12). These needles glide between fabric fibers instead of piercing them, preventing snags and skipped stitches..  **Replace your needle often! A dull needle is one of the most common causes of skipped stitches on stretch fabrics. Many people suggest that for every new project use a new needle! But we suggest every 6-8hr sewing time.

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2. Use the Right Stitch [test it first]

A straight stitch will pop the moment your fabric stretches, just skip it! Try one of these instead:

Narrow zigzag stitch: (2.0 width, 2.5 length) for flexible seams.

3-Step zigzag stitch: Similar to the narrow zigzag but will have even more stretch and recovery.

Stretch stitch (lightning bolt): Perfect for lingerie and activewear seams.

Serger stitch: Gives a professional finish if you have a serger machine. *recommended for athletic clothing and underwear but not bras!*

Always test your stitch on a scrap of your fabric before starting your project. Every fabric behaves a little differently.

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3. Don’t Stretch While You Sew

Let your sewing machine do the work. No tugging or pushing through! Pulling on stretch fabric causes wavy seams. Instead, guide the fabric gently, letting the feed dogs move it through naturally. If your seams still ripple, lower your presser foot pressure or use a walking foot for even feeding.

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4. Stabilize Key Areas

Certain parts of a garment like straps, waistbands, or lace edges, benefit from added support. Use seam tape, or a strip of powernet or sheercup lining (all available from Bra-Makers Supply) to stabilize and prevent overstretching.

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5. Pick the Perfect Thread

Cotton thread is too rigid, we suggest you avoid it. Choose a polyester thread for stretch projects, it flexes with your fabric and won’t snap. At Bra-Makers Supply, we always recommend our good-quality polyester thread like Gütermann for lingerie sewing. *Specifically Mara 120 as this thread is slightly finer than the All Purpose*

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6. Cut with Care

Stretch fabrics love to wiggle! To keep cuts precise:

• Use a rotary cutter and self-healing mat.
• Cut one layer at a time.
• Use pattern weights instead of pins to prevent distortion.

This is especially important when cutting delicate laces or mesh

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7. Practice Makes Perfect 

Sewing stretch fabrics can take tons of practice! Each project will help you understand how different fabrics behave, and soon.. sewing stretch fabrics will feel like second nature. Start with a Bra Duo Kits (or a Customized Bra Fabric Kit if you have your own elastics) and simple pattern and enjoy the process.

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Ready to Sew with Confidence? Bra-Makers Supply carries everything you’ll need for your next project. From fabrics, laces, elastics, thread, needles all the way to ready-to-sew kits.  Browse our collection of stretch fabrics and lingerie supplies and start your next creation with confidence.

Because sewing lingerie isn’t just about fabric..it’s about creativity, confidence and being able to say ‘I made this myself!”